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Gruyère Croquettes with Spinach-Rosemary Mousse & Anise Salt

Gruyère Croquettes with Spinach-Rosemary Mousse & Anise Salt

Autumn 2013

By: Luke Hayes-Alexander, Luke's Gastronomy

Luke Hayes-Alexander, chef at Luke’s Gastronomy in Kingston, Ont., loves playing with food. This unusual appetizer, which teams crisp cheese croquettes with creamy spinach mousse and a hit of anise, is a perfect example of his avant-garde style. You’ll need the cardboard tube from an empty roll of paper towel for forming the mousse.

Serves 8 as an appetizer

GRUYÈRE CROQUETTES
8 oz (250 g) Gruyère cheese
1⅓ cups (330 mL) water
2 tsp (10 mL) canola oil
½ tsp (2 mL) kosher salt
1⅓ cups (330 mL) all-purpose flour

SPINACH PURÉE
1 tbsp (15 mL) salted butter
9 cups (2.2 L) lightly packed baby spinach, about 8 oz (250 g)
Pinch of granulated sugar
1 cup (250 mL) water
⅓ cup (80 mL) finely grated peeled potato
⅓ cup (80 mL) whipping cream
Kosher salt to taste

SPINACH-ROSEMARY MOUSSE
1 tsp (5 mL) salted butter
1 tbsp (15 mL) rosemary leaves
9 cups (2.2 L) lightly packed baby spinach, about 8 oz (250 g)
⅓ cup (80 mL) whipping cream
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
Pinch each of granulated sugar and kosher salt

ANISE SALT
2 tbsp (30 mL) anise seeds
1 tbsp (15 mL) kosher salt

TO SERVE
Canola oil for deep-frying
Finely grated lemon zest
Finely chopped chives

1 To make the Gruyère croquettes, cut cheese into eight 2½ x 1-inch (6 x 2.5-cm) rectangles, each about 1/3 inch (8 mm) thick (reserve any trimmings for another use).

2 In a medium saucepan, combine water, oil and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then quickly add flour all at once. Remove from heat and stir vigorously until dough is smooth and pliable.

3 Scrape dough out onto a large plate and quickly pat out to a 6-inch (15-cm) square. Chill in freezer until top of dough no longer feels warm, about 10 minutes.

4 Roll out dough between 2 large sheets of parchment paper to ¼-inch (5-mm) thickness. Let cool to room temperature. Cut eight 4 x 3½-inch (10 x 9-cm) rectangles from dough. Place a piece of cheese along short side of 1 piece of dough. Roll up cheese in dough to enclose completely, sealing seam, pinching ends closed and discarding any excess dough. If dough tears, patch with a piece of dough, sealing well.

5 Repeat with remaining cheese and dough. Place on a plastic-wrap-lined plate, cover loosely and refrigerate for up to 24 hours or until ready to cook.

6 To make the spinach purée, melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Gradually add spinach, letting each addition wilt slightly before adding more. Add sugar and cook, stirring often, until spinach is completely wilted, 2 to 3 minutes.

7 Stir in water, potato and cream and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium heat, uncovered and stirring often, until potato is tender and mixture is reduced and thickened slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

8 In a blender, purée spinach mixture until very smooth. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 24 hours or until ready to serve.

9 To make the spinach-rosemary mousse, melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add rosemary and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Gradually add spinach, letting each addition wilt slightly before adding more. Cook, stirring often, until spinach is completely wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

10 In a blender, combine cream, egg, egg yolk, sugar and salt until well blended. Add spinach and blend until very smooth. Rub mixture through a fine sieve into a pitcher, discarding solids.

11 Fill a large, wide saucepan with water and bring to a simmer over high heat.

12 Stack four 18-inch (45-cm) lengths of plastic wrap on work surface. Lay cardboard tube from a paper towel roll along one long edge of stack, then roll up plastic wrap to enclose tube. Twist one end of plastic wrap near one end of tube and tie tightly with kitchen string. Carefully ease out cardboard tube, leaving a plastic wrap “tube.”

13 Place a funnel over open end of plastic wrap tube and carefully pour in spinach mousse. About 1 inch (2.5 cm) from top ofspinach mousse (to leave room for expansion), twist end and tie tightly with kitchen string.

14 Gently place tube in simmering water, adjusting heat so water simmers gently (do not boil). Weigh tube down with a small plate to keep it submerged and simmer gently, uncovered, until mousse is just firm, 30 to 40 minutes.

15 Remove mousse from saucepan and place in bowl of ice water until cool to touch, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from water and refrigerate for up to 24 hours or until ready to serve.

16 To make the anise salt, grind anise seeds and salt to a fine powder in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. Set aside.

17 An hour before serving, remove spinach purée from refrigerator and let stand at room temperature.

18 Just before serving, preheat oven to 300°F (150°C).

19 Carefully cut away plastic wrap from mousse and cut crosswise into ¾-inch (2-cm) slices. Arrange slices on a parchment-paperlined baking sheet and reheat in oven, 6 to 8 minutes.

20 Meanwhile, heat oil in a large, deep saucepan to 360°F (185°C). Fry Gruyère croquettes, in 2 batches, turning occasionally, until golden and crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

21 To serve, spoon spinach purée into centre of each of 8 dinner plates. Top each portion with a slice of mousse, then a croquette. Generously sprinkle croquettes with anise salt. Scatter each plate with lemon zest and chives and a final dusting of anise salt.

Serves 8 as an appetizer
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