In many cases these Margaux are showing better than they did at en primeur, the ageing process helping to fatten them up. Here, full-on aromatics spiral out of the glass, an appealingly seductive nose. The palate is austere, yes, but the tannins are tight and present rather than raw, building up in the mouth. There's a clear precision to the fruit, very carefully delineated and with good persistency, leading to a finish of cold ash, tobacco and pencil-lead. It's a wine to think about, to hold on to, to enjoy, and this gives full rein to the classy image of Margaux as the centre of delicacy and precision in the Médoc. Michel Rolland consults. Drinking Window: 2024-2040. Score - 94. (Jane Anson, decanter.com, Oct. 8, 2018)
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