A pinot noir from the loess soils of Baden (as opposed to the volcanic soils also found in about half of the region's vineyards), this is Keller's entry point, but my, what an excellent entry wine it is. He selects the pinots from these lighter, wind-blown dust sites for its finesse and delicacy, its perfume and refinement, as exemplified in this delightful and engaging 2018. I love the refined, fresh, red fruit expression, the raspberry and wild strawberry, the spiced cranberry chutney. Wood is a very minor feature, save for the touch of cinnamon and brown spice imparted by old oak. What's most surprising is the depth of flavour and the length on this seemingly light, 12.5% alcohol wine - it lingers on and on, so sappy and sapid, succulent and tonic. Be sure to chill lightly and enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Lovely stuff. Score - 92. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com, Oct. 16, 2020)
Franz Keller Vom Löss Gutswein Spätburgunder 2018
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