Siemens' 9.5% alcohol 2009 Serriger Wurtzberg Riesling Auslese - picked late from a single parcel, and fruit he acknowledges was heterogeneous in ripeness and health - is surprisingly reminiscent in the nose of the leafy, high-toned herbal, and floral notes that characterized this year's generic Riesling Scivaro. Lily-of-the-valley and peony add especially musky and sweet perfume that carries all the way through a lush palate and persistent finish. Its author thinks this is in a withdrawn phase now but I find it quite expressive, especially aromatically, and its juicy pear and honeydew fruit matrix; discretely-integrated sweetness; and polished feel all combine for an imposing degree of seduction, which I suspect it will retain for at least the better part of two decades. Score - 91. (David Schildknecht, robertparker.com, Dec. 22, 2011)
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