Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2017

750 mL bottle  |   VINTAGES#:  184549

This is the eagerly anticipated first re-release of the Clos Jordanne project, formerly a joint venture between Burgundy's Boisset family and Constellation Brands that was shelved in 2012, but which was resurrected by new owners Arterra Canada. The project's original winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, was called back into action to craft this chardonnay, made from vines grown on the original property, Le Grand Clos, just under the Niagara Escarpment in Jordan, technically in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-region of the Niagara Peninsula. Both the vines and Bachelder have matured in the intervening years, and the combined result here is a rather spectacularly understated wine, neither flashy nor entirely demure, reserving its most beguiling sensory experience for the palate. The greatest beauty is in the richly layered texture, riding on a vaguely sweet impression derived from impressively ripe orchard fruit (especially in this challenging, wet vintage) and the gentle contribution of lees and old wood that serve to further soften and round out the mid palate. I appreciate the savoury side, the light resin and bees wax, blond caramel and marzipan/halva flavours that linger on the long finish. It's a sumptuous wine all in all, one to be sipped and savoured slowly and deliberately, now or into the mid-'20s. Score - 93. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com, Aug. 11, 2019)