Good full dark yellow. The rich but nuanced nose combines tarte tatin, orange jam, smoke, toffee and honey; there is also a complicating marmelady botrytis-like element. Enters fat, glycerol-rich and very ripe, but has just enough sneakily penetrating acidity to keep the fruit-driven flavors of peach, tangerine, lime, apple pie and cinnamon lively and well-delineated. Very fleshy and dense with extract, but also suave. It almost tastes like biting into super-ripe grapes! The long, tactile finish left my taste buds quivering with each sip and wanting to immediately drink more. A big wine that will be nobody's idea of a fresh dry white wine, but this is so remarkably well balanced and intense that it's really hard to put the glass down once you start tasting it. Try it with aged cheeses or chicken in a mushroom cream sauce or a gibelotte. Drinking window: 2022-2029. Score - 94. (Ian D'Agata, vinous.com, April 2018)
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