Understated at first, the 1997 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino pulls you close to the glass, showing black cherry, hints of sage and crushed stone, blossoming further and gaining richness with each swirl, adding notes of dusty cedar spice box, cacao powder, leather strap and dried flowers. On the palate, silky textures give way to fleshy red berry fruits, offset by saturating minerality and acids, while remaining energetic and leaning further toward the savory spectrum. The finish is long, still showing hints of fine tannin, yet the message here is elegance. The 1997 is simply gorgeous. It offers many years of positive evolution in store for readers who can be patient. Drinking window: 2020-2032. Score - 94. (Eric Guido, vinous.com, June 2020)