Rémi Leroy Extra Brut Nature Champagne

Based in the Aube, which shares the same Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone soils as Chablis just further south, young Rémi farms 3 of his family's organic 9 ha under this label; the rest of the grapes are sold to large Champagne houses. This brut nature is 60/40 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, vine age averaging 25 years, and my bottle was based on the 2016 vintage (70 percent) with 30 percent reserve wines, and disgorged in May 2018. This was native fermented in 85 percent stainless (remainder in older oak), with full MLF before three years on lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tight, nimble and lemon-pith-laced, with a gossamer structure and lightness of being, propelled by an energy from the soils. Chalk grips the lengthy finish. Without feeling sharp or lacking at all, this riveting, vibrant example is what brut nature aspires to be. Score - 94. (Treve Ring, wineanorak.com, Jan. 5, 2020)