Pinot Noir is a different beast. It’s dubbed “the heartbreak grape” because of its vulnerability to disease and vintage variation, which make it exceptionally difficult to craft truly refined examples. But Pinot can elucidate nuanced differences in sites with an astonishing precision, and this has made finding its ultimate expression a lifelong obsession for many (winemaker and consumer alike). Its finest instances are found in its ancestral home: Burgundy. But in select cool-climate areas across the globe, winemakers coax wines that reflect the distinctiveness of their terroir and add new, captivating chapters and stories to the ongoing legend of Pinot Noir.
In Niagara, the moderating effect of Lake Ontario combined with ample sunshine and limestone-rich soils encourages approachable, complex Pinots with fresh, bright fruit character and a vivid energy. Winemakers continue to dive deep to explore and reveal nuanced expressions of Pinot Noir, such as the Le Grand Clos, from specific sites and even specific blocks within vineyards.
The most famous expressions of Pinot Noir come from the limestone-based soils of Burgundy. The grape has been cultivated here for thousands of years, and Burgundy has been divided into a mosaic of small parcels of land that are graded and ranked in terms of the quality and style of the wines they produce. Hand-crafted and food-friendly, Burgundy’s Pinot Noirs are floral, with suggestions of cherry, strawberry, beetroot, earth, spice and mineral and offer both delicacy and structure. This seemingly contradictory condition of being is just one of the things that makes Burgundy’s Pinot Noirs so unique and beguiling.
It’s not only winemakers from the far-flung corners of the world who attempt to evoke the spirit of Burgundy through their Pinot Noirs. Even some French producers seek to use Pinot to unlock the secrets of non-traditional terroirs. In Provence, where hot, dry summers would seem to undercut the likelihood of success for the grape, sites planted at altitude enjoy plentiful sunshine and cool evenings, as well as benefiting from the moderation of the mistral winds. These factors, along with limestone soils and precise care in the vineyard, allow for the development of earthy, ripe Pinots with refined herbal notes and a classic structure.
Pinot Noirs from Oregon are lean and “tight” with an earthy complexity and elegance that reflects a noted Burgundian character. Indeed, the exciting similarities have attracted many producers from Burgundy. Oregon’s complex soils and varied topography are the result of the violent volcanic activity and the great glacial Missoula Floods of prehistory. Winemakers exploit these disparities in terroir to produce a wide range of stylish, ageable, terroir-driven Pinots with refined cherry, earth and spice tones and a true capacity for ageing.
Flamboyant aromatics, freshness, and notably concentrated red fruit are typical traits of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Marlborough has quite diverse soil types. Glacial deposits, gravel, clay, loam, and wind-blown loess allow winemakers to create highly nuanced wines by taking advantage of Pinot Noir’s ability to reflect the distinct attributes of multiple sites and soils in their final blends. Ocean influence, along with abundant sunshine and cool evenings, create a long growing season in Marlborough and give Pinot Noir the time to ripen fully and evenly, developing its characteristic intense flavours while retaining balance and crispness.
Pinot Noirs such as those from Burgundy or Oregon are ideal for dishes like venison stew, spice-rubbed roast duck, or the classic beef bourguignon pairing. The finely structured, lithe versions from Ontario and Marlborough make good matches for grilled salmon or roasted chicken. Pinot’s earthy character makes it great for sides or mains featuring mushrooms or root vegetables.
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