Hail that Cab

A spontaneous crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc in the vineyards of Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon quickly established itself as a food-friendly, ageable, delicious dynamo. The grape flourished, especially in gravel-rich soils. These soils have poor nutrient value, forcing vines to delve deep to survive. The Médoc region is a neck of land between the Atlantic coast and the Gironde River, both of which influence the vines, producing Cabernets defined more by refinement than power. Listrac-Médoc has more limestone and clay than gravel and produces very tannic Cabernet. A large part of Cabernet Sauvignon’s success here is due to its excellence as a blending partner, especially with Bordeaux’s other main grape, Merlot, allowing winemakers to address vintage variation and austere tannins.

The jewel in California’s crown, Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in nearly all of the state’s major wine regions. The valleys, hills, mountains and plains of California’s complex topographical makeup combine with a wide variety of climates ranging from dry, hot areas to sites cooled by Pacific Ocean breezes and fogs. Across these myriad growing conditions, one unifying characteristic shines through: ample sunlight. In sunny California, grapes have no difficulty reaching full ripeness, and the best of California’s Cabernets possess a level of ripeness and purity of cassis flavour that simply cannot be matched anywhere else in the world. Within Napa Valley, Cabernet expresses itself as ripe and powerful when grown in lower, warmer sites, or aromatic and elegant when produced in cooler mountain vineyards.

Washington’s Columbia Valley sits in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains, and the varied soil types and topography have led to the establishment of 12 official AVAs. Indeed, 99% of Washington’s vineyards are planted here. The dry conditions created by the rain shadow necessitate irrigation to allow viticulture to be successful. This factor, along with the region’s sandy soils and isolated position, has kept its vineyards free of the phylloxera louse. This means most vines planted here are on their own rootstock, which is a rarity in the world of wine. Consistent sunny conditions assure wines of great typicity and purity of expression and encourage Cabernets that are rich, ripe and complex, with blackcurrant, cherry, berry, chocolate, leather, mint, and savoury herbs.

Mendoza is a desert-like region, but winemakers can use melting snow from the Andes. Altitude is another of Mendoza’s great advantages; for every 100 metres above sea level, the temperature can drop by nearly 1°C. Higher altitudes also see more intense and concentrated sunlight, which increases photosynthesis and results in differing thicknesses of skins on the same type of grapes when grown at different altitudes. These subtle differences have a major impact on the style of wines made. With plantings ranging between 1,000 and 1,450 metres elevation, the Uco Valley contains the highest vineyards in Mendoza. The slow ripening period and cool temperatures create wines with high levels of natural acidity, dark fruit, cassis, black pepper and tobacco.

Niagara Cabernets offer delicious insight into how successful Cabernet Sauvignon can be in carefully selected sites within cooler regions. With vineyard temperatures moderated by breezes from Lake Ontario, Cabernets from the Niagara Peninsula exhibit a lithe, fresh character, with generous dark fruit, savoury herbs, earth and spice. Planting on gentle slopes that provide excellent sun exposure throughout the growing season allows the grapes plenty of opportunity to ripen evenly and fully despite Niagara’s overall cool conditions. The rolling topography of the Short Hills Bench is ideal, providing unobstructed sunlight as well as a high percentage of Cabernet’s favourite soil: gravel.

Australia’s wine regions are mostly found in coastal areas with proximity to the moderating influence of the Indian, Southern or Pacific oceans. Cabernet has enjoyed great success across Australia, where it showcases dark, ripe black fruit and notably firm tannins. The varied wine regions produce a wide range of styles, from the lifted, lithe and elegant to the intense and robust. Coonawarra has rich, structured wines with a distinct eucalyptus note, while the cold nights and cool breezes of the Clare Valley encourage Cabernet Sauvignons that are profoundly aromatic. The Margaret River has a moderate-to-warm maritime climate not unlike that of Bordeaux, so it’s not surprising that the ripe, finessed, ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignons produced here are the most European in Australia.

Consumers have fallen in love with the approachability, food-friendly nature, and amazing value of Chilean Cabernet. But they’re also drawn to these wines because they are richer than those from Bordeaux and less overtly powerful than those from California; they’re a charming bridge between both quintessential expressions. Though there are regional differences and styles, Chilean Cabs share a supple mouthfeel, generous dark fruit, savoury herbs and spice notes. The Aconcagua Valley is Chile’s hottest, driest region, and its Cabs are broad-shouldered with boldly defined ripe fruit and an unmistakable earthy character. The Maule Valley contains a complex mixture of clay, loam, granite and gravel soils, with vineyards planted in low-lying river valleys, on hillsides, and in high-altitude sites in the foothills of the Andes.

South Africa’s largest wine region, Western Cape, benefits from the prevailing cooling ocean winds that blow in from the southeast, collectively known as the Cape Doctor. These winds, which can present difficulties early in the growing season, moderate temperatures across the Cape. Westerly winds that affect the more northern areas of the Cape are also cooled by the Benguela current, which runs from Antarctica all the way up the west coast of South Africa. Cabernets from warmer sites are robust and bold, with ripe cassis, plum and mulberry notes. In cooler areas, where the influence of the cold Benguela current and the Cape Doctor winds are most intensely felt, the wines develop an elegance, structure and freshness that bridge the styles between New World and Old World.

Cabernet Sauvignon was first introduced to Italy in the 1820s when it was planted in Piedmont. It’s now an important grape in several regions, most significantly Tuscany, where its capability as a blending partner with Sangiovese helped usher in the age of the Supertuscans in the 1970s. The soils here include clay-limestone, sand and gravel, among other types. The famous undulating hills of Tuscany also have a huge influence on the styles of wine made, as even subtle variations in aspect and altitude can have significant impact on the fruit produced. Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon is dynamic and often includes touches of red fruit alongside the characteristic black fruit, cassis, spice and herbs, and those grown in sandier soils can be highly aromatic.

No matter where it’s grown, Cabernet’s distinct cassis and dark berry notes are always there. Here’s a quick breakdown of some other cool facts about this great wine grape.

• It’s a small, thick-skinned grape with a large seed and a low juice-to-skin ratio, resulting in high levels of colour, flavour and tannins extracted during fermentation.
• Cabernet has a great affinity for oak. Barrel ageing softens harsh tannins while imparting even more evocative aromas and flavours like coconut, clove and vanilla.
• Complex flavours, tannins, and a fine seam of fresh acidity make Cabernet Sauvignon a food-friendly option.
• Cabernet’s intensity, depth of flavour, colour and tannins make it a popular addition to many blends around the world, especially with Merlot, Shiraz and Sangiovese.
• High levels of tannins combined with balanced acidity allow for exceptional ageability. Under the right conditions, the best Cabernets can age for decades.
• Decanting is a great way to enjoy young Cabs (even the most ageworthy ones). Aerating unlocks aroma and flavour compounds while softening the tannins.

Cabernet Sauvignon’s tannic nature and boldly expressed fruit tones mean it can overpower lighter dishes, so it’s best to serve it with fattier, richer foods. It’s a classic option for grilled meats and hard cheeses such as aged Gouda or aged cheddar, and vegetarians and vegans can pair it with hearty dishes like Tuscan-styled vegan gnocchi with roasted root vegetables or flame-grilled portobello mushroom steaks.