Vintages - American idyll

Though the most popular and famous US winemaking region, California was not where American winemaking began. That honour falls to (brace yourself) Florida, in the early 1560s. Californian wine was first made 200 years later, when Spanish Franciscan missionaries planted vines to produce communion wine.

The California gold rush of 1848-1855 saw a massive expansion of vineyard area and grape varieties planted, as the influx of fortune seekers included enterprising winemakers who found their own gold mines in the soils and abundant sunshine of California. To gain some idea of the scale of the California gold rush, consider this: the population of San Francisco exploded from roughly 1,000 people to more than 25,000 in 1848 alone.

All of California’s vineyards enjoy plentiful sunshine and most prime vineyards are situated near the coast, where cooling Pacific Ocean breezes and fogs help the grapes ripen slowly, encouraging balanced wines. California’s diverse soils and wide range of mesoclimates allow for the production of more than 100 different types of grapes, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel. The pioneering spirit has never left California’s winemakers, and in the 1960s, the arrival of entrepreneurial producers including Robert Mondavi, Julio Gallo, Joe Heitz and Louis Martini ushered in a new golden age that continues to this day.

As with California, Oregon’s winemaking history is tied to the western expansion that occurred in the late 1840s. Prohibition shut down all serious wine production completely until 1961, when UC Davis grad Richard Sommer (who bottled Oregon’s first vintage of Pinot Noir in 1967) began experimental plantings of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Malbec and Zinfandel. Throughout the early ’60s, Sommer was followed by David Lett, Charles and Shirley Coury and Dick Erath, all of them UC Davis-trained winemakers who disagreed with the notion that fine wine couldn’t be produced north of Napa Valley. They soon demonstrated that the rolling hills of Oregon were indeed ideal for creating world-class wines.

Oregon’s vineyards are planted on the western side of the Cascade Mountain range, and the varied topography and conditions support more than 50 grape varieties. Oregon’s reputation as a top-tier winemaking region rests solidly on Pinot Noir. And though Pinot’s Burgundian partner, Chardonnay, also does very well here, it’s Pinot Gris that is Oregon’s leading white grape. In recent years, Oregon’s ability to produce refined wines of great purity and provenance has attracted considerable international investment and development, including the Drouhin family of Burgundy fame.

Grapes were first planted in Washington in 1825, and though there was an enthusiasm for producing wines here, there was little momentum to Washington winemaking as many fledgling vineyards and wineries regularly fell victim to the state’s harsh winters. Enter Dr. Walter Clore: a teetotaler who was named the Father of Washington Wine by the state senate in 2003. Clore arrived in Washington in 1934 and began research into growing vegetables and fruit, including grapes. He became convinced that, though vulnerable, premium winemaking could thrive given careful site selection. He shifted his focus to winemaking.

By 1974, Dr. Clore and his team (which included Washington’s oldest winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle, for whom he was a consultant) had planted and tested 300 grape varieties in various locations and conditions. His meticulous, scientific approach identified areas where the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Riesling would produce premium-quality fruit. Washington’s vineyards are found to the west of the Cascade Mountains where, unlike in Oregon, conditions are warm and dry. Bordeaux varieties do exceptionally well here, and Washington’s red blends are simply outstanding.

Wine was first made in New York by Dutch and Huguenot settlers in the 1800s. The state now ranks third in total grape production in the US, behind only California and Washington, though the majority are native or hybrid varieties designated for juice and sacramental wines.

Positioned between the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes, New York’s wine region is dotted with small lakes and rivers that play a significant role in moderating local temperatures. There are 10 AVAs within New York, the most prestigious being Finger Lakes, which has similar soils and weather conditions to those in Niagara. Not surprisingly, Finger Lakes produces exquisite Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Riesling. The latter has become the region’s star grape, with high-scoring, cellar-worthy versions being produced in all styles.