Top Shops
Even the most famous varieties in the world occasionally generate a word or two of bad press, sometimes from envy, often just a case of sour grapes. Here, we acknowledge these grapey gripes and then refute them. There are so many excellent reasons why Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling are grown all over the world, and why these varieties are loved and revered. Each one is used to produce wines that vary dramatically in style and intention, price point and personality, so the grouping offers something to please everyone.
Merlot
“If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving,” says Paul Giamatti’s character in Sideways, the 2004 movie that did wonders for Pinot Noir sales and took some of the shine off Merlot’s popularity. Grumpy Giamatti despised the simple, fruity, undemanding Californian and Washington Merlots that had shot to stardom during the 1990s after Americans heard that red wine had health benefits. He was not thinking of Château Pétrus, the world-famous Bordeaux that is almost pure Merlot, or of a host of other Pomerols and Saint‑Émilions from the region’s “Right Bank,” where it dominates the blend. The most widely planted grape in France—third in the world—Merlot lacks the tannin and acidity of Cabernet Sauvignon but makes up for it with body, colour and intense plum and blackberry fruitiness, precisely the characteristics that make it such a useful component in red blends. In Washington State and California, the quality of single-varietal Merlot has soared since the ’90s, while in Italy it runs the gamut of styles from simple crowd-pleasers to three-figure Super-Tuscans.
Bountiful Fruit, Velvety Texture
Josh Cellars Merlot
Merlot shows its warm and cozy side! Lush, soft, generous and ripe to the brink of sweetness, this Californian favourite is laden with blueberry and raspberry flavours, overlaid with oaky vanilla and hints of spice. It's a perfect match for spaghetti bolognese.
The Right Stuff from the Right Bank
Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
A classic Merlot-dominated Bordeaux that’s rich but muscular, full of black cherry and plum, cedar, smoke and spice. It will open up with an hour or so in a decanter, flavours unfurling like an opening flower bud—or cellar it for years, if you prefer. This bottle makes a great gift for a connoisseur.
Pure Bordeaux Merlot with a Niagara Connection
Chombart & Speck Cave Mystère Merlot
Made in Bordeaux as a collaboration between Henry of Pelham’s Speck brothers and the Chombart family of Château Lamothe de Haux, this is a medium-bodied, well-balanced mouthful of blackberry, cherry and cassis, with impressive length.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Born in Bordeaux during the 17th century from an accidental crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, Cab Sauv is now the most widely planted grape in the world—which leads some to grumble that its popularity has displaced indigenous varieties. One response is to blend it with softer, fruitier local grapes—Cab famously plays well with others. In cool climates, where ripeness is an issue, it can show notes of green bell pepper. In very hot locations, wines can taste like blackcurrant jam. That said, today’s growers and winemakers have ways to compensate for such extremes. Tannic and intense, with a sturdy acidity, some Bordeaux and Californian Cabs are made to be aged for years before drinking; most are aimed at more impatient customers.
An Informal Introduction
Paul Mas Pays d’Oc Cabernet Sauvignon
The grape ripens reliably in the South of France. Here, the elements of its personality are lined up with a disciplined sense of balance. Dry and refreshing, with cassis, cherry, cedar and a hint of oaky spice all present and correct, it’s a fine match for a lamb burger.
Down Under—Above and Beyond
Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon
A big mouthful of blackcurrants and purple plums with a touch of coffee, oaky spice and just a soupçon of green pepper in the aftertaste—that’s the profile for this full-bodied Australian, a consistent best-seller. It's great for a steak night or winter barbecue.
Take It to the Party!
Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon
Owned by the revered Catena family, Alamos offers fine value with this dry, mid-weight Argentinian Cab, layering black fruit over a solid tannic structure with hints of oaky vanilla and pepper. Enjoy the lingering finish!
Sip and Savour
Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
Chile’s Aconcagua Valley is renowned for ripe, dense Cabs. Expect complex depths here, with smoky oak, dark chocolate and cedar woven into the cassis and black fruit flavours. This is a fulsome red, that's beautifully balanced and sure to delight wine lovers.
Riesling
The only serious rival to Chardonnay as Number One white grape for the last 300 years, Riesling nonetheless carries a burden of misinformed distrust. People imagine it’s always sweet. What it is, in fact, is balanced. Even when the wine is made in a very dry style, the grape’s natural acidity needs a trace of sweetness to become mouth-wateringly delicious. Low in alcohol, famously food-friendly and capable of creating masterpieces at every level from bone-dry to icewine, it is also exceptionally sensitive to the conditions under which it is grown—expressing terroir in the clearest way while still maintaining its own unmistakable identity. Germany is its homeland, and it does superbly well in Alsace and Austria; on this side of the ocean, Niagara has been producing world-class examples for decades.
An Afternoon Delight
Studert-Prüm Riesling Spätlese
Mosel Riesling means lime and minerality—present in spades in this Spätlese (late harvest) version. The sweet richness is balanced by acidity, and the overall impression is one of elegance. Only 8.5% alcohol by volume.
How Good is Niagara Riesling?
Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Blend Riesling VQA
Superlative—and a vibrant example of the complexity of floral, citrus, apple and mineral notes that a first-class winemaker (Emma Garner) can capture with fruit from mature vines on Niagara’s Benchland. Irresistible as an aperitif, it’s also wonderfully versatile at the dinner table.
Alsatian Style: To Be Relished!
Willm Réserve Riesling VINTAGES ESSENTIALS
Bone-dry but smooth and weighty as satin, this floral Alsatian gem finds other choice suggestions on the palate—illusions of beeswax and petrol behind the apple and citrus. Experience tongue-tingling to the max!
Riesling’s Party‑Going Bubbly
Kew Vineyards Organic Riesling Sparkling VQA
Sparkling traditional-method brut Riesling from a mature organic vineyard on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench shows a fine mousse, racy acidity and loads of clean, bright green apple, cider apple and candied lime nuances. Open at brunchtime.
Chardonnay
Remember the ABC “Anything But Chardonnay” movement of a decade ago? It was a (rather childish) reaction to Chardonnay’s ubiquity on wine lists and in vineyards around the world. There was a reason for the grape’s popularity: it can make arguably the most delectable white wines of all, especially in cool-climate regions such as Ontario and, of course, Burgundy, where the grape evolved—a wild cross of Pinot Noir and a variety called Gouais Blanc, believed to have originated in Croatia. Now, its reputation is fully restored, and we can sip our Chardonnay with an easy conscience, revelling in a range that encompasses everything from Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne and crisp, dry Chablis to some voluptuously tropical, oaky giant from Australia or California—and myriad styles in between. Something of a blank canvas for a winemaker, Chardonnay is delightfully easy to grow. Enjoying it is as simple as ABC.
A Smooth, Creamy Crowd-Pleaser
Santa Carolina Chardonnay Reserva
The tastes of pear, mango and toasted hazelnuts spring to mind with this middle-weight, silky beauty from Chile’s Maule Valley. South American Chardonnays continue to give exceptional value for money.
Lively, Elegant Party Wine
Villa Maria Private Bin Chardonnay East Coast
Light on its feet despite the touch of oak, with peach, melon and tangy citrus notes. New Zealand is best known for Sauvignon Blanc but also offers very attractive Chardonnay, the fresh fruit buoyed by a crisp acidity. Perfectly pair it with a chicken Caesar salad.
World-Class Niagara Chardonnay
Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES
One of Niagara’s handful of true benchmarks, it offers a dazzling balance of elegance and intensity, full of complex fruit and mineral notes with a subtly poised acidity. Judicious French oak is in there, too. This is an all-round class act from stellar winemaker Thomas Bachelder.
Pinot Grigio
Why has Pinot Grigio become so popular in the last couple of years? Its critics might argue that part of the appeal is its lack of personality—the wine’s low acidity, diffident aroma and relatively vague flavour can be inoffensive to the point of blandness. In Alsace, that low-key bouquet is seen as an asset when matching Pinot Gris with food, though prize examples have their own lovely apple, pear and smoky notes, as well as a luscious viscosity. Elsewhere, climate lends character. In Italy’s mountainous northeast, for example, the grapes benefit from cool summer nights, which make them ripen later, developing more obvious aromatics and holding onto their acidity a little longer than is possible in warmer sites. Here are three wines from different hemispheres that show what this grape can do when properly coaxed by the winemaker.
Reliable Quality and Character
Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio
From the deep Adige Valley in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains, this iconic Pinot Grigio ripens late, allowing more flavour to develop than in flatter, more southern sites. Think ripe green apples, honeysuckle and a hint of minerality, all refreshed by a welcome touch of zesty acidity.
A Lunchtime Favourite
Matua Pinot Grigio Marlborough
This floral, aromatic Pinot Grigio from New Zealand’s South Island charms with cooked pear and peach notes and the smooth, mouth-filling weight that is one of the variety’s trademarks. Try it with simple chicken or seafood dishes.
Rich and Voluptuous
Angels Gate Pinot Gris VQA
A big wine with a nudge of acidity and generous pear, ripe red apple and white flower aromatics. The overall balance is impressive and helps this Ontario wine shine at the table with baked ham or roast chicken. Serve it well chilled.
Celebratory Wine Cocktails
Shake things up and allow wine to shine by mixing into a delicious libation.
Take Your Sour to a New Level
A Toronto take on the New York Sour, this Old York Sour uses Canadian whisky instead of bourbon, and maple syrup instead of simple syrup. The Merlot float on top of the cocktail is a colourful finishing touch that tastes great with the whisky.
Savour a Cocktail Before Dinner
Inspired by the Bicicletta cocktail (a mix of white wine, Campari and soda), the Tricicletta is a subtle, bittersweet aperitivo cocktail, welcome at any time of the year. Pinot Grigio lets the Aperol shine: chill them both before making.
